Tuesday, January 29, 2008

mahadev at 11000feet above sea level

It was year August 1989. I was a boy that time. But I was very-2 much interested in adventures especially trekking and Swimming. Every year at Raksha Bandhan, Hindus from all over Kashmir used to visit various holy places especially places connecting to Lord Shiva, Like Amarnathji,Harsher,Sersher,Dhanshewar,Shankarayacharya temple-----.I along with my two close friends had decided to go to Mahadev.My elders had warned me that Journey to Mahadev is very tough, Tougher than Amarnathji. I had asked my parents permission to go to Mahadev,But I was simply scolded. My grandfather said”abhi tu bacha hai! 4-5 Saal ke baad soochna” But I was adamant and I along with my friends had already made up our mind. I told my parents that I am going to shankracharya temple for the night and they readily agreed and told me that I should come back next day before 10.00a.m
My friends Sanjay Bharti and his cousin Naveen Raina decided to meet on Aug 16 at the local bus stand. We all boarded a bus to a village known as Dara.This village is very near to famous Dachigaam national park.We took some snacks along with us…some biscuits and bread. After some one hour or so we felt very hungry and we ate everything which we had bought with us bread, biscuits and some sweets. We could not see a single person in our first 3 hours of ascend. After some 3 hours We met some people. My Muslim neighbor was also among them. His name was”Arif”I asked him “what are you doing here!”, He said” I had been to tarsar and marsar and I am in these mountains from last 4-5 days” Tarsar and Marsar are high altitude mountain lakes. They were a group of around 4-5 boys and they looked fully equipped with tents,haversacks,carry mats etc..etc.Later on after some years after this incident came to know that”Arif” had become a militant and then I realized that these boys had actually gone to mountains for arms training and to push militancy.
Any way we were enjoying our trekking and it took us almost six hours before we reached a place known as “leedwas”.This place is a small meadow with some 10-30 houses belonging to nomads known in kashmir as” Gujjars”. For these gujjars their lives revolve around their livestock.By the time we reached leedwas it was around 7.30-8.00p.m.We met some other Hindus also there. Total number of devotees was around 10-12 people. We were told normally every year at least hundreds of devotees used to come to Mahadev, But this year situations are somewhat different.(It was early stage of Militancy in Kashmir).As boys we could not understand politics and we had just came for trekking and to see something new. We had thought that we will be able to find something to eat once we reach leeedwas.But to our disappointment there was nothing as we had thought. Our fellow devotees were very kind and told us that they had bought some vegetables and rice with them. They also told us that since this year things are not normal and the people who used to look after the arrangements of devotees had not come this year so we have to somehow find a place where we can cook and sleep overnight. We three friends were the youngest among all the devotees. These devotees spoke to the “gujjars” and were able to get 2 kothas(house) from them.Gujjar “kotha” or gujjar house is a rectangular shaped single room and single storey house may be 15 yards long and 10 yards wide. Made of mud. It has a horizontal partition. front side of the partition is used as living, dining and bedroom and the back side is used by their livestock. This means both gujjars and their livestock share that one room or kotha.It was a bit uncomfortable sleeping in that kotha as there was hardly any decent flooring. They use deodar twigs as flooring .We spread one quilt on the flooring and one quilt to cover our bodies. While lying down for sleep, we could clearly see the shining eyes of their sheep and goats just above our heads. Somehow we slept and woke up at 4.00a.m next day.
As I said we were a group of 10-12 people and I think most of the devotees were first timers. An experienced and elderly person took the charge of leading the way further up to mahadev shrine. we were all walking in a line, walking and climbing the mountain very cautiously. We were following literally each other’s foot steps. After some 3 hours we reached a place, where we saw a huge rock. We were told that this rock has to be climbed without shoes as this is the sacred rock. This rock was right on the ridge of the mountain just above the famous dachigaam national park. That rock must be around 20 feet high, and its surface was very rough and it was almost piercing our feet. On the other side of the rock was the holy and famous mahadev. It is not a normal shiv linga,but it is naturally formed on the surface of the rock and it is Blackish in colour as compared to the rock with very-2 smooth surface, It is situated just above the ridge and below it is the wildlife sanctuary. Sun had risen by the time we reached the shrine and I must say that It was all very-2 beautiful, very scenic, and divine.
After having darshan we immediately started our journey back to leedwas.We reached leedwas in less than 2 hours. It was already 10.00a.m and I was worried as I was given a deadline to reach home back by 10.00a.m.
From leedwas,I with my friends Sanjay and navin hurriedly descended back. we were actually running and It took us another two and half hours to reach back to Village Dara.We could not find any transportation back to the Srinagar bus Stand as a “Hartal”
was called by the Muslim fundamentals in memory of 1st death anniversary of Pakistan Military Dictator Zia-ul-hak.Instead of waiting we started walking back to srinagar and after 2 hours we got a lift from the truck.That truck dropped us midway.It was another 3 kms. which I walked by foot to reach my home. I reached my home very much exhausted and tired by 5.00p.m.I don’t need to write how I was treated by my family. Obviously they were very annoyed and angry with me.
After some years I asked my grandfather again about Mahadev.He said”It is the toughest abode of lord shiva in srinagar,it is very-2 difficult”.
It is comparatively tougher than other places and It must be situated at least 11000 feet above sea level. I don’t know whether I will go back to Mahadev again ever, But the memories of this trip will remain very special to me and my friends.

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